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EXPEDITION IN THE ILLAMPU GROUP
TOTAL 8 DAYS
SEASON: JUNE – AUGUST
THIS EXPEDITION IS JUST FOR VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS THAT WANT
TO PROOVE THEIR HABILITIES IN A DIFFICULT MOUNTAIN WHERE VERY GOOD
PHYSICAL AND MENTAL SHAPE ARE REQUIRED, AS WELL AS GREAT HABILITIES
IN ROCK AND ICE CLIMBING. IT IS ADVICEABLE THAT THE PARTICIPANTS
WOULD HAVE A CLIMATIZING PERIOD IN LESS DIFFICULT MOUNTAINS. THE
ROUTES SEEN IN THE PICTURES CAN VARY, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS
IN THE MOUNTAIN.
THERE EXISTS THE POSSIBILITY OFNG NEW ROUTES.
FOLLOWING, THERE IS A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTES.
NORTH PEAK 6050 mts.
EAST FACE –BETAMBOURG ROUTE
 DISLEVEL
: 1180 mts.
TECHNICAKL DIFFICULTIES: D – 2 – ROCK V – Pasos
VI – ICE TO
80 DEGREES
1ra CLIMB : G. Betambourg, A. Mesili, B. Chaud
Date: 1982
ITINERARY
From Coocoyo the pile of the North peak is very well seen, and
it is more important from this side. The 200 mts. of the base are
very difficult in good rock. There are excellent places of camping,
taken care 300 mts from the end. The way down is normal between
the peak and the so called “Gorra de hielo”
NOTA:
For all the routes of climbing in this area, it is necessary to
consider the sudden weather changes and be prepared with the adequate
equipment. All this zone is particularly interesting, and also
you can reach other great summits of the so called Valle Blanco
del Illampu y Ancohuma.
GORRA DE HIELO 5700 mts.
SOUTH FACE, “RUTA DIRECTÍSIMA” STRAIGHT ROUTE
DISLEVEL : 490 mts.
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES: A D – 1
1ra CLIMB : A. Mesili, E. Sánchez, R. Olmos Date: 1970
2ndCLImb “Mountagne Magazine” 1983
NOTA:
This route is pretty beautiful, but it is hard due to the ice on
the rocks and it is difficult due to the small and now since.
The verticalility of the ice reaches from 60 to 70 degrees inclination,
its south exposure helps for a good freezing, but sometimes it
gets very violent winds.
PROGRAM:
DAY 1 : TRANSFER LA PAZ – SORATA - ANCOMA
DAY 2: ANCOMA –BASE CAMP
DAY3: BASE CAMP–HIGH CAMP
DAY 4: CLIMB TO “GORRO DE HIELO”
DAY 5: FREE DAY
DAY 6: CLIMB TO “PICO DEL NORTE”
DAY 7: RETURN TO ANCOMA AND AFTER TO SORATA
DAY 8: SORATA – LA PAZ
THE EXPEDITION INCLUDES:
PROFESIONAL GUIDES , GUSTAVO LISI AND OTHERS UIAGM GUIDES, 1 GUIDE
FOR EVERY 2 PARTICIPANTS – CLIMBING EQUIPMENT – PRIVATE
TRANSPORTATION– PORTERS – FOOD – COOKS – FULL
CAMPING WITH MOUNTAIN TENETS, KITCHEN TENE, DINNING TENT – LIQUIDS
TO DRINK
DOES NOT INCLUDE
SLEEPING BAG
AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL:
TECHNICAL MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT
ASK FOR THE PRICES PER PERSON, MINIMUN 2 PEOPLE
SPECIAL DISCOUNTS FOR:
- 10% FOR 4 PAX
- 15% FOR 6 PAX
- 20% MORE THAN 6 PAX
Ask for the photographs and maps of the routes. |
